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WHY DO WE NEED TO USE SPF PRODUCTS EVERY DAY AND HOW TO CHOOSE THEM?

Healthy skin in summer and sun damage

Although this summer is already coming to an end, each of us has likely felt the effects of the sun. The sun provides many benefits to our physical and mental health, as it is an excellent source of vitamin D and increases the levels of serotonin—the mood hormone—but we must also not forget its negative effects. Whether you are at the beach, walking down the street, playing in the park with your children, or even just driving a car, your skin feels the sun's impact, and perhaps even its damage!

Our skin performs a very important protective function—it shields the human body not only from temperature changes but also from harmful environmental factors. Direct sunlight is one of the most aggressive factors for human skin. UV rays are classified as one of the primary causes of skin cancer. Scientists have estimated that as much as 80 percent of skin aging is caused by sunlight. Studies conducted in Australia have proven that the skin of people who use sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher daily ages 24 percent less than those who do not use daily sun protection. And if we remember that the skin has memory and the harmful effects of the sun accumulate over the years, we would likely take a more responsible approach to skin care from a young age.

What are sun rays and how do they affect the skin?

Solar energy is the source of life on Earth. Energy travels through space in the form of radiation. Electromagnetic spectrum radiation is classified based on wavelength and frequency. The solar radiation spectrum covers a wide range of wavelengths from 200 nm to 11,000 nm. The ultraviolet rays emitted by the Sun that reach Earth are of several types. Only rays longer than 290 nm reach the Earth's surface, because shorter (UVC) rays are absorbed by ozone molecules in the stratosphere.

UVB wavelengths range from 280-320 nm. These rays affect the skin surface more: they damage the epidermis, cause sunburn, and their effect activates the formation of free radicals. Consequences: sunburns, keratinization disorders, wrinkle formation, risk of skin cancer, and the activation of aging processes.

UVA wavelengths are 320-400 nm. These rays penetrate into the deep layers of the skin - the dermis. The dermis acts as a framework and ensures the mechanical properties of the skin. It contains elastin and collagen fibers, which act as "springs" responsible for the skin's resilience and elasticity. Elastin is a key component that helps keep the skin flexible, while collagen provides firmness and a taut appearance. Due to the effect of UVA rays, elastin and collagen fibers weaken, the skin loses elasticity, and early signs of aging appear.

Consequences: reduction in skin elasticity and resilience, skin micro-scarring (similar to stretch marks), wrinkle formation, skin inflammation, weakened resistance to infectious diseases, risk of skin cancer, and premature skin aging.

Is sun damage the same as photoaging?

Yes. The medical term for sun damage is "photoaging." This is another buzzword widely used when talking about skin care and cosmetics. Simply put, it means sun-damaged skin and premature aging. The effect of UV on the skin externally resembles age-related changes: dryness, loss of firmness, the appearance of a network of fine lines, the appearance of a capillary network, and pigment spots.

UV radiation, through constant exposure to the skin, promotes the formation of free radicals. UV rays damage proteins, cell membrane lipids, nucleic acids, and DNA structures. Gradually accumulating, these damages provoke the destruction of the upper layer of the skin and the extracellular matrix of the deeper layer—the dermis.

Can I reduce the sun damage I have already done?

Regardless of your age and how many years you have been enjoying the sun's rays, there is still hope!!! Simple things like daily use of sunscreen on the face, neck, body, and hands can make a big difference. However, even a cream with the highest SPF factor does not protect the skin 100%. Additional protection from UV radiation includes hats, clothing, sunglasses, and safe behavior rules that limit UV exposure (being in the sun). Do not abuse the sun and always remember that it is strongest between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM, so try to refrain from being outdoors every day during the times when the rays are most dangerous. Depending on skin type, everyone should know their appropriate (recommended) tanning time to avoid skin damage or irritation.

Overview of sun filters

Protective sun filters are divided into 2 groups: physical (inorganic) and chemical (organic).

Physical filters - reflect both UVA and UVB type rays. Suitable for people with sensitive skin and children, as they very rarely cause allergic reactions. Recognized in the US as the safest and most researched sun filters. They contain zinc oxide (ZnO) and/or titanium dioxide (TiO2). The particles of these metal oxides are large, do not enter the deeper layers of the skin, so it is believed that they are not biologically active. The disadvantage of mineral filters is that by covering the skin surface, they leave a visible white protective film, which many do not like.

The Spanish dermocosmetic manufacturer Martiderm has created sunscreens that have a fluid consistency, spread easily, absorb well, and do not leave white marks on the body.

Chemical filters – these are organic substances that absorb UV rays. They absorb well into the top layer of the skin. Even small amounts can enter the body through the blood, which is why they cause allergic and photoallergic skin reactions more often than physical creams. It has been observed that the higher the filter concentration, the higher the likelihood of allergic reactions. Not recommended for children under two years of age. There is a wide selection of this type of filter on the market.

Protective creams often contain all sun filters (pigments, micropigments, antioxidants) to complement each other and strengthen the protective effect. When choosing a cosmetic product with UV filters, it is important to know how long you can be in the sun without harmful effects on the skin. Such an efficiency parameter is called the Sun Factor and is denoted by the letters SF, SPF, and numbers (3, 5, 7, 12, 15, 20, 30, 50, 50+). Protective sun preparations are used 10-15 minutes before going outside—the product starts working after this time.

Use protective creams daily!

A famous dermatologist once said: if there is no protective cream in your daily skin care routine, that routine is worthless. For skin to be healthier, elastic, and maintain its radiance and youthfulness longer, sunscreen is essential every day! This should become a daily habit, like brushing your face and teeth. Choose protective creams responsibly, study their composition, and look for antioxidants. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals and block their reactions. It is great if they also contain ingredients that hydrate, soothe the skin, act as natural biological filters, have an effect on radiation emitted by smart devices, and strengthen the natural skin microbiota—prebiotics, probiotics.

Martiderm solar line - the first sun cosmetics that activate under UV exposure

This is sun cosmetics that not only helps fully protect the skin from the damaging effects of any radiation (UVA, UVB, blue light emitted by smart devices, infrared rays) and helps strengthen skin barrier functions, hydrate, and promote skin renewal, but is also eco-friendly.

All creams contain chicory (Cichorium intybus) root extract. In vitro (test tube) studies have shown that due to its rich and abundant oligofructose content, chicory root extract increases the number of vitamin D receptors (VDR), promoting their synthesis in the skin.

We know that with age, the number of vitamin D receptors and vitamin D synthesis in the skin decrease, which is why chicory root extract is widely used in cosmetics. Vitamin D promotes skin cell proliferation and renewal processes.

The Martiderm-patented filter PHOTO-ACTIVE SHIELD TECH® contained in the product activates under UV radiation. Unlike conventional chemical sun filters that degrade under UV rays and lose their protective effect, PHOTO-ACTIVE SHIELD TECH® is activated by UV rays. As a result, greater protection is achieved with lower quantities and concentrations than with conventional filters. Due to the lower amount of filters, allergic skin reactions occur less frequently, and nature is preserved. The composition does not contain conventional chemical filters, which usually cause skin irritation, redness, watering, and stinging of the eyes.

Such filters are eco-friendly—they are not water-soluble and therefore do not harm aquatic vegetation.

There are 3 types of fluid creams with a light consistency that spread pleasantly and easily and absorb into the skin.

How to choose the most suitable Martiderm sunscreen?

MARTIDERM Mineral [D] Fluid Cream SPF 50, 50 ml

Designed for children and people with sensitive skin. Contains only mineral filters, which are recognized as the safest. Mineral or physical filters – titanium dioxide and zinc oxide do not absorb into the skin, but remain on the skin surface, acting as a natural protective shield.

The cream is free of any fragrances and chemical filters that can cause allergies in sensitive skin. In addition to mineral filters, it contains cocoa extract, which is rich in peptides, saccharides, and polyphenols. Cocoa extract protects the skin from blue light emitted by mobile devices. Chicory root extract helps the skin renew itself. The prebiotics contained in the product - α-glucan oligosaccharides are food for good bacteria. This strengthens the skin microbiota, which is the skin's first defense and protection system.

For comprehensive protection against the sun and blue light, we recommend:

MARTIDERM [D] Fluid Protective Cream SPF 30+ and Intensive Effect [D] Fluid Cream SPF 50+

Two fluid creams with comprehensive sun protection. The composition includes Martiderm's patented sun filter PHOTO ACTIVE-SHIELD TECH® SUNSCREEN. This protective filter covers the skin with a non-clogging film that provides maximum protection against UVA and UVB rays, yet does not disrupt natural water evaporation through skin pores (transpiration). HEV (blue light) sun filters extracted from cocoa protect the skin from skin aging caused by digital devices.

For those looking for reliable protection and a beautiful tan, we recommend:

MARTIDERM Bronzing [D] Fluid Cream SPF30, 50 ml

This is not a self-tanning cream. It is a sunscreen-bronzant that promotes melanin synthesis, i.e., the skin's natural protection against UV rays. Melanin synthesis in melanocytes increases by 47%. Strengthens and prolongs the natural tanning process by activating the skin's natural protection, so the tan will be radiant and even. Contains hydrating ingredients and antioxidants that moisturize and help restore the skin's barrier function.

Conclusions

UV radiation, through constant exposure to the skin, promotes premature skin aging and cancerous skin diseases;
Sun protection is necessary all year round;
The innovative line of Martiderm sun creams with exclusive patented technology – wide spectrum protection (UVA, UVB, HEV – blue light, IR – infrared rays), helps restore the skin (strengthens the effect of vitamin D), and with prebiotics – strengthens the skin's barrier function and promotes melanin synthesis.
    Literature:
    Antoniou C, Kosmadaki MG, Stratigos AJ, Katsambas AD. Photoaging: prevention and topical treatments. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2010; 11:95-102.
    P. M. B. G. Maia Camposa, D. G. Mercurioa, M. O. Meloa and B. Closs-Gonthier. Cichorium intybus root extract: A ‘‘vitamin D-like’’ active ingredient to improve skin barrier function. Journal of dermatological treatment, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2016.1178695
    Maria Celia B. Hughes, Gail M. Williams, PhD; Peter Baker. Green,Sunscreen and Prevention of Skin Aging. Ann Intern Med. 2013; 158:781-790. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23732711/
    Elio Kechichian, Khaled Ezzedine. Vitamin D and the Skin: An Update for Dermatologists. Am J Clin Dermatol 2017. DOI 10.1007/s40257-017-0323-8
    D. Mohania et al. Ultraviolet Radiations: Skin Defense-Damage Mechanism. Part of the Advances in Experimental Medicine and Biologybook series (AEMB,volume 996). DOI: 10.1007/978-3-319-56017-5_7
    Uli Osterwalder, Myriam Sohn & Bernd Herzog. Global state of sunscreens. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 2014; 30: 62–80.
    VijayKumar Patra, Irène Gallais Sérézal and Peter Wolf. Potential of Skin Microbiome, Pro- and/or Pre-Biotics to Affect Local Cutaneous Responses to UV Exposure. Nutrients 2020, 12, 1795; doi:10.3390/nu12061795
    Yaar M, Gilchrest BA. Photoageing: mechanism, prevention and therapy. Br J Dermatol. 2007;157:874-87.
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