Vitamin C is one of the most common ingredients in dermatological cosmetics, offering the highest antioxidant effect. However, when we talk about pure vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, questions arise regarding its use and benefits, especially during periods of active sun exposure.
MartiDerm, as a leading company in the production of ampoules with proteoglycans and pure vitamin C, would like to answer these frequently asked questions and provide interesting information about this "star" ingredient.
Characteristics and functions:
ANTIOXIDANT POWER
- Vitamin C can delay or prevent the oxidation of other molecules. It neutralizes free radicals, thereby reducing the damage they cause. Free radicals are unstable particles in our body that form during various cellular processes. They react rapidly with healthy cells, damaging their structure. Our body is not always able to neutralize free radicals in time, causing damage to accumulate and leading to biological aging.
- Vitamin C works perfectly in combination with protective creams against UVA and UVB rays, enhancing the skin's natural defense.
- Vitamin C immediately brightens the skin and provides a rapid glow effect.
ANTI-AGING EFFECTS
- Activates the production of collagen III and elastin and protects them from degradation. The skin becomes more elastic and firm.
- Stimulates proteoglycan synthesis.
DEPIGMENTATION
- Vitamin C is a tyrosinase inhibitor: it prevents the appearance of hyperpigmentation or dark spots.
- Protection of 4-hydroxyphenylpyruvate oxidase: involved in tyrosine metabolism.
- Reduces excess melanin: regulates skin tone.
However, not all forms of vitamin C found in cosmetic products have the same antioxidant effect. This essentially depends on whether it is pure or in the form of a salt. If it is pure vitamin C, it is important to consider not only the concentration but also the pH of the formula. The pH determines the level of the antioxidant effect and the depth of penetration through the stratum corneum of the skin.
MartiDerm is a benchmark for complex formulas, which is why our ampoules ensure that the vitamin C they contain is at its most effective, allowing you to enjoy all of its benefits.
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Proteos basic ampoules
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Photo-age HA+ ampoules |
Skin Complex Advanced ampoules |
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3% proteoglycans |
3% Proteum 89+ |
5% Proteum 89+ |
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5% pure vitamin C |
15% pure vitamin C Vitamins A, E, F Hyaluronic acid Repairing anti-radical complex |
15% Vitamin C-Tech Vitamins A, B5, E, F and chicory root extract.
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pH 3.84 |
pH 3.50 |
pH 3.75 |
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Allergen-free |
Allergen-free |
Allergen-free |
For pure vitamin C in a cosmetic product to be as effective as possible, its pH must average between 3.5 and 4.0. If the pH is below 3.5, it will be too acidic, meaning the product could be highly irritating. If the pH is above 4, the product loses its efficacy.
Common misconceptions
In the beauty industry, we are constantly asked whether vitamin C can be used in the summer, due to concerns that it may cause spots on the skin. In fact, it CAN be used, because vitamin C does not cause hyperpigmentation and does not darken existing spots.
Products with a concentration of pure vitamin C between 5% and 15% have a brightening or depigmenting effect. As mentioned, vitamin C is a tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor and an excellent aid for treating depigmentation. It improves and evens out skin tone, giving it radiance.
We do not recommend using pure vitamin C ampoules while at the beach or during active sun exposure; however, they are perfect for soothing the skin after sunbathing, reducing redness and irritation.
If you are not planning active sun exposure, you can use them in the morning, but you must apply sunscreen with at least SPF 30 after the ampoule.
